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PORT ANGELES — I could start with the wineries, the sculptures and the brothel museum — yes, you heard right — and the great backyard that is Hurricane Ridge. But the law of screaming teens dictates that I get this duty out of the way first: Port Angeles is home to three storefronts, a corporation and a theater mentioned in the teen vampire series “Twilight.” (Insert firm of screaming girls.)
Two days subsequent my visit, my ears were still ringing from every part of the “Oh My Gods” and screeching.
“Where are the ‘Twilight’ sites?” or a variation of this question has become the most-asked at the town visitors center. Gas-station attendants and store owners are used to hearing it, too.
“Twilight” fans, I plant an choice solution so that you be able to leave these poor townspeople alone. But more on that later.
Where was I? Ah, ay: Port Angeles, a lazy but underrated town, with wine and art. This town pairs nicely with Hurricane Ridge for a weekend getaway, especially for the period of the winter when crowds are sparse.
Go for hibernate sports
On a true day when the road is clear, Port Angeles is a 40-minute drive from Hurricane Ridge, the highest point you be able to impel to in Olympic National Park during winter. When snow conditions are right at the ridge, you can snowboard or ski — downhill, backcountry or cross-country. There is even a tubing area.
At the tiny, family-oriented Hurricane Ridge Ski Area, run by a arrange of local winter sports enthusiasts, there are two rope tows for a modest bunny and initiator run, and a Poma lift that leads to challenging terrain with an 800-foot vertical small quantity.
Still, it’sitting a cozy community ski area, a PTA gathering on snow.
But what a view. The snow-covered valley of Douglas fir and Western red cedar south of Hurricane Ridge. The Bailey Range with Mount Olympus as backdrop.
And because you are already up at 5,242 feet, you don’privately even have to break a sweat if you add a conduct on one of the park’s every-weekend snowshoe hikes to a unqualified view of Port Angeles below, with glimpses of Victoria, Vancouver Island and the British Columbia coastal range in the distance.
After a full day on the ridge, drive back along the course of to Highway 101, a road that can portray you completely right and left this vast park if you want to experience its split personalities: snowcapped mountains, rain forest and wilderness coastline.
Or stop and exist lost some era in Port Angeles.
Wine and art
When you’re surrounded by the Hoh rain forest to the west, Hurricane Ridge to the south and Victoria, B.C., to the north, it’s hard to top those attractions.
But Port Angeles, in an opposite direction 2-½ hours through car and ferry from Seattle, works nicely in a supporting role to Hurricane Ridge.
Seven wineries dot the North Peninsula, including Harbinger Winery, a maker of good Bordeaux blends, located roughly halfway between downtown and the national park gateway in a charmingly transformed former truck-repair shop.
Come spring, this boutique winery will require a brewery for a neighbor and after that, a Cajun crab shack to transfer favorable opportunity of the bounty of Dungeness crab nearby.
The knowledge how to do scene, too, has transformed this former logging community: Forty-one abstract and natural-habitat inspired sculptures perch around the historic downtown, and east of place, an additional 124 metal and stone artworks spread across the 5-acre Webster’s Woods Art Park.
This city’s outdoor sculpture park, more like Westcott Bay Sculpture Park in the San Juans than Seattle’s Olympic Sculpture Park, is not grandiose but contains plenty of impressive artwork through regional talents such of the same kind with Micajah Bienvenu and Alan Lande. It’s next to the city’s lunate Fine Arts Center, perched on Beaver Hill, overlooking the harbor and the strait, enjoying one of the best panoramic views on every side town.
About that brothel
And how sundry towns have power to boast of having a brothel museum, on the take the top off floor of a “Family Shoe Store” in downtown? Store holder Kevin Thompson, whose house has owned the building for generations, has a sense of humor. He’sitting refurbishing the brothel when he’s not retrieving Tevas and Hush Puppies for mothers and children in the high sea showroom.
His ancestors didn’t run the whorehouse, further rather another, ahem, entrepreneur saw the boarding chamber extension for rent and got creative.
The furniture has been replaced, moreover the structure of the 18-room brothel remains. Back in the betimes 1920s, customers selected their girls through the window by means of the upstairs entrance and paid $2 through a slot to gain entry.
The madam’sitting room features a peephole to watch for police raids. The backroom features a trap entrance to the roof for the ladies to make their getaway via a spirit escape.
The brothel is part of an underground tour. Like Seattle, Port Angeles’ historic downtown had to be raised during the time that much as 15 feet so as to be safe from encroaching water. The place wants to save many original structures, partly to use those basements to expand the underground tour.
Tourism with bite
Port Angeles has also designated a Chamber of Commerce staffer to deal with all things “Twilight.”
(”Twilight” fans, don’t think I don’t know you skipped over to get to this point.)
The town will soon print self-guided tours of “Twilight” sites. And it’session working with other towns to legion “Twilight” tours and events through the Olympic Peninsula, though any tours would benefit the town of Forks more since most local settings for Stephenie Meyer’s parasite series are there.
But “Twilight” fans render impassable to this place along the way to snap pictures of Port Book and News, the local Gottschalks department store, Peninsula College and Lincoln Theater, which all figure in the story, and to eat at Bella Italia, where “Twilight” characters Bella and Edward had their primeval date over mushroom ravioli.
The downtown restaurant served added than 1,700 orders of mushroom ravioli last year, mostly to “Twilight” fans from all over the world.
Come in this place at darkness, any night, and it’s easy to see why the restaurant power of determination batter last year’sitting ravioli remembrance, being of the class who the economist predicts. Twilighters are everywhere; dining, waiting by the fit with a front door to dine, snapping pictures of a “Twilight” sacred object while tarrying to dine.
And they’re not just teenagers. Outside Bella Italia, 54-year-old Mickey Means and her sum of two units daughters, 29 and 25, from Valentine, Texas, were mugging in front of the restaurant, part of their three-day “Twilight”-theme vacation on the Olympic Peninsula.
Waiting for dinner?
Puh-leese. They beat the crowd an hour ago. Three orders of mushroom ravioli.
Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com