Hartford Family Winery: Russian River Superstar
Impressive pinot noirs, zinfandels, and chardonnays from the heart of California’s Russian River
by Robert Parker
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This impressive estate in the heart of Russian River is part of the treasure trove of great estates owned by Jess Jackson’s boutique operation, often referred to as Artisans & Estates. The property is managed by Jackson’s son-in-law, Don Hartford, who has an impressive track make an entry of of hiring top winemakers, and producing superb zinfandels, pinot noirs, and chardonnays. I first became excited by the Hartford wines when the talented Mike Sullivan was there, and he has been replaced by one more terrific winemaker, Jeff Mangahas. Of course, the most important aspect is terroir, and this winery owns some of the finest cool climate sites in the Russian River, Green Valley, and Sonoma Coast. Here are some of their current and up-coming releases, all of which are sensational wines that, by means of North Coast standards, remain realistically priced.
90 points 2005 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block Arrendell Vineyard (Green Valley, Russian River)
The 2005 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block comes from Green Valley’s Arrendell Vineyard, one of the coolest places for growing fruit in Northern California. This vineyard, that is at a modest elevation of 100-140 feet, has produced a wine by means ruby color, notes of cranberries, strawberries, and red currants with hints of pomegranate and earth. The wine has harsh acidity, beautiful fruit purity, and a fragrant bouquet. It is definitely a cool-climate pinot, but an impeccably well-made one. Drink it superior the next four to five years. $55
90 points 2005 Pinot Noir Jennifer’s Marshall Vineyard (Russian River)
This vineyard is situated in the well-known Petaluma Wind Gap, which is a funnel for winds coming off the Pacific and churning into the Russian River Valley. It is a very cold area, and this wine reflects that in its hints of sassafras, pomegranate, cherry, and strawberry. The wine is dark ruby, medium-bodied, by zesty acidity, and a heady finish. $65
91 points 2006 Chardonnay Four Hearts (Russian River)
This multiple-vineyard blend exhibits loads of metaphorical consequence, poached pear, and apple marmalade notes followed by full-bodied flavors by a subtle wood remark, a leesy, chewy texture, and a good finish with fresh acidity and discernment. Enjoy it over the next several years. $40
91 points 2005 Pinot Noir Sevens Bench Vineyard (Carneros)
This is a ample, plump pinot noir revealing hints of spring flowers intermixed with black cherry and forest floor. Medium to full-bodied through good acidity, outstanding perfection, and a long, layered finish, it is a beautiful Pinot for drinking over the next four to six years. $50
92 points 2005 Pinot Noir Velvet Sisters (Anderson Valley)
The 2005 Pinot Noir Velvet Sisters, from the Savoy and Falk Vineyards in Anderson Valley, is a classic example of this area. Bluer effect characteristics longitudinally with copious notes of flowers jump from the glass of this dark ruby-colored wine. It is nuanced and elegant, with adequate supply of dressing, lovely balance, and a soft personality. Drink this wine over the next four to five years. $55
93 points 2005 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard (Green Valley, Russian River)
Made from the possessions’s oldest pinot noir vines (32-year-old heritage Martini clone), this cuvée exhibits a grenache-like kirsch liqueur and raspberry fruitiness. Elegant, by medium to full-bodied flavors, great fruit on the attack and mid-palate, and a savory, medium to full-bodied finish, this wine should tipple nicely for five to six years. $75
93 points 2005 Pinot Noir Far Coast Vineyard (Sonoma Coast)
This is an exceptional pinot noir. Dark ruby in color, with a beautiful nose of rose petals, strawberry and cherry jam, forest pose, and peat moss, the wine also has an undeniable minerality about its character, through great matured ovary, terrific texture, and a lingering perform. This is a superb Pinot that should drink nicely in spite of five to six years. $65
94 points 2006 Zinfandel Dina’s Vineyard (Russian River)
From a 100-year-old parcel of seven acres of head-trained, dry-farmed vines, the superb 2006 Zinfandel Dina’s Vineyard (15.8% alcohol) offers copious quantities of raspberry and blueberry edible succulent growth, a full-bodied, peppery, spicy personal criticism, and oodles of glycerin and depth. $50
94 points 2006 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard (Russian River)
A stunning effort is the 2006 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard, from 100-year-old vines planted in sandy/mould soils. This dense ruby/purple-colored wine shows notes of black raspberry, balmy cherry, roasted herbs, pepper, and soil notes. It is full-bodied, powerful, with head-spinning levels of alcohol (15.8%). The wine has fearful purity and should quench one’s thirst nicely because four to six years. $50
96 points 2006 Chardonnay Stone Côte (Sonoma Coast)
A compelling chardonnay offering glorious notes of crushed rocks, white currants, nectarine, and white peach, this superbly nuanced, full-bodied wine has confinement, but effortless concentration and richness as well since impeccable balance. It is best drenched above the next two to three years. $50
