Sequim: Can we keep this “quiet”?
SEQUIM
“The delightful sedateness of the weather greatly aided the beautiful scenery that was now presented,” the explorer observed in his journal. “The country exhibited everything that bounteous nature could be expected to draw into common peculiarity of view.”
Two centuries later, Vancouver’s journal still aptly describes this northern edge of the Olympic Peninsula
Sure, thousands of cars per day roar past on Highway 101, headed for Sequim, Port Angeles and points above. Some resolution stop at the regional Costco or the Seven Cedars Casino at the southern end of the laurel. Most will hold only a flying glimpse of the shoreline that entranced the explorers in 1792.
Those who do find their way to saltwater are treated to any intricate and relatively pristine corner of Washington’s inland main, a windswept refuge in spite of gulls and puffins and seals and for the occasional kayaker who sets out to join them. It’s a geography of weathered bluffs overlooking grassy sand spits shaped by centuries of air and waves that continue to modify the work of the ancient glaciers.
The town of Sequim, named for an Indian expression. meaning “quiet waters,” seems curiously disconnected from its seashore. It’s a farming town, nestled in a sunny river dale, that has been steadily morphing into a retirement mecca. Its population has grown by other than a third just since 2000.
And that’s nothing compared to what’s on the drawing boards
But, thanks to its undiscovered seashore, this region still has a great quantity to offer the urban escapee. On any given summer day, one can kayak the shores of Sequim Bay in the morning and hike side by side a 5,000-foot alpine ridge in the afternoon. One can harvest berries at a U-pick farm, play the slots at the local tribal casino or be stirring windswept Dungeness Spit to a moving lighthouse.
The first stop beneficial to many visitors is Sequim Bay State Park, a wooded retirement wedged between the thwart and Highway 101 just east of town. Despite its proximity to the highway, it’s a popular getaway, offering campsites by stunning moisten views, surrounded by old-growth firs and WPA-style camp science.
While the park caters mostly to car campers, it moreover offers a launching ramp and moorage for boaters, and bare-bones campsites for kayakers. From to this place, mariners produce out to explore the steep, forest-crowned shorelines of Sequim Bay.
Don’t leave home without your tide charts. The bay is kept relatively calm by dint of. Travis Spit, which extends from one side of to the other the entrance, leaving boaters by a narrow channel that is prone to tidal currents with each rise and fall of the sea change.
It’s worth the effort, however. Once you leave the sweet laurel, the seascape changes dramatically as you drift into the rare ecology of Dungeness Spit. The five-mile sand spit, arching gracefully revealed into the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and the shallow bay back it take in the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge. It is home to thousands of seabirds
The inside, or eastern side, of the spit is strictly for the birds. Hikers and kayakers are welcome on the exposed outer shore.
If Sequim Bay is known for its quiet waters, then Dungeness is notorious for its winds, which scream off the Strait of Juan de Fuca and over the spit, in that place to delight the wet-suited windsurfers who tend hitherward from miles around to ride a stiff northwesterly.
So far, the old fishing village of Dungeness and surroundings have managed to keep their Cape Cod-like ambience
Follow Vancouver’s path a few miles to the east, and civilization gets even thinner. Protection Island, which one. guards the entrance to Discovery Bay, is another wildlife refuge, this one as being glaucous-winged gulls and puffins and strictly off-limits to boats and visitors. Violet Spit, at the east end of the island, is a favorite haul-out for harbor seals, plus a few atrocious elephant seals that have moved in more not long ago.
Paddle offshore and you have power to envision what this whole ecosystem looked like from the decks of HMS Discovery, Vancouver’s entice ship.
Discovery Bay is bigger, deeper and more exposed than Sequim Bay, but there is even less boat traffic. It’s truly out of the way for most boaters. Along some 20 miles of shoreline, there is just one small, individual marina and only one point of public access
Launch a boat here, and you are truly retracing a historic voyage. It was here that the explorers anchored for two weeks while they repaired the ship, began their small-boat explorations, and brewed up a batch of “spruce beer” by reason of the thirsty horde.
Alas, it is not a sure thing that these Olympic shores will maintain the “delightful serenity” that Vancouver enjoyed. Change is afoot. One greater recourse, backed by the heirs to Hollywood cowboy John Wayne, is planned in favor of the forested shores surrounding the John Wayne Marina in continuance Sequim Bay. Wayne Enterprises owns 160 acres there, and plans call for a lodge, restaurant, spa, vacation cabins and some 232 retirement homes, totally oriented toward the bay.
A couple of miles from a thin to a dense state the road, the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe plans to expand its felicitous casino into a high-end conference center, with 500 rooms, restaurants and shops and a 100-foot totem pole.
On the other possession, a wild retreat awaits on the Miller Peninsula, which separates Sequim and Discovery bays. When a Japanese company’s aspiring plans on the side of a destination golf resort fell through in the premature 1990s, the state obtained the land and assembled it into a 3,000-foot parcel of fir and cedar forests with miles of high-bank waterfront.
State Parks’ development plan is on hold, awaiting the dollars necessary to proceed. But Steve Gilstrom, Sequim Bay park governor, anticipates “accessible wilderness” through a basic lodge surrounded by miles of trails and wildlife.
For now, the enormous site is closed to the public. But visitors can glimpse the possibilities from a diminutive, unnamed Clallam County park on the north coast of the Miller Peninsula. There are no signs, just a gravel path from Buck Loop Road down a trifling ravine to a cobbled beach.
Here undivided can still conceive these shores in much the same way Vancouver did
