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BELLINGHAM — In retrospect, the opening date for the Chrysalis Inn & Spa — April 2001, exact a few months before Sept. 11 — was appropriate. It ended up as a year when cocooning seemed like the best creative going.
A chrysalis, on this account that the lepidopteran-challenged, is the pupal stage of the butterfly — the correlate to a cocoon for other winged insects.
And this waterfront hotel on the edge of Bellingham’s historic (and increasingly gentrified) Fairhaven province is a pretty cozy place to curl up on a window seat (every room has one), read a good book or simply recharge while you gaze out at broad, glittering Bellingham Bay and the brooding hump of Lummi Island or have in keeping pirouetting fleets of butterfly-spinnakered sailboats dodge the Alaska ferry.
If cabin agitation strikes, you be possible to join multitudes of multi-sporting Bellinghamsters on the Taylor Avenue Dock and South Bay Trail, right audibly front.
The Chrysalis tucks 43 rooms into one elegantly modern three levels designed by McClellan Architects of Seattle. Muted colors counterpoint design splashes such as rooftop skylights reminiscent of upstretched wings — those butterflies another time — and a dramatic three-story lobby by soaring, sensuously curving staircases.
Chrysalis owner Michael Keenan, also part owner of Anacortes’ Majestic Inn & Spa, is a hands-on kind of entrepreneur who will oftentimes greet you from behind the front desk. Here’s the kind of you’ll attain to in the rest of the tavern:
The rooms
Polished hardwood floors make a handsome entry to both extent (and are even more expansive in the suites).
Colors are calming. Our full-view deluxe room ($234 rack rate upon a July Thursday) came in a palette of what we’ll call Campbell’s Cream of Celery complemented by Sage Stuffing, with a carpet of, uh, Kiwi Fruit (a brown and green blend).
Décor is minimalist modern. A small mantel-shelf over the gas fireplace (cast in all rooms) held two pieces of true pottery targeted by an overhead spotlight. Original artwork — some large and colorful — is throughout the inn; in our room was a small charcoal attrition on parchment and a little think out of the definiteness of sense-perception pastel, not enough to distract from that expansive view (what one. would trump most numerous anything).
Which brings us to that window seat, fastidiously cushioned and great enough to stretch confused on, with Roman blinds to lower when the afternoon sun does the klieg-light-in-your-eyes thing. (The inn faces immediately west.) The water view from our third-floor room was unimpeded; trees may partially block views from some rooms on lower floors.
A leaf-print spread covered a down comfortable on our king-size lay, which had lots of down pillows and a headboard of “pickled” gray wood (repeated in the room’s nightstands, chest and desk).
If you’re a fan of boob-tube-hiding armoires, tough hap: A naked 27-inch television perched brazenly atop the chest in our room. A DVD player was a bid welcome joining (by movies to borrow at the front desk), and a bedside Sony clock radio also played CDs (gain your allow tunes).
The details
Two neo-industrial metal lamps provided volatile at bedside, with a similar floor lamp next to the field’s single overstuffed chair. A canister light on a dimmer switch lit the window seat.
A mini-bar through a granite-look in opposition to held a motel-issue Sunbeam four-cup coffee maker, with a preference of Torrefazione Italia or Fidalgo Bay decaf, two types of Sir Aubrey’s White Lion teas, plus sugar packets, Equal, Coffee-mate and pair packets of “honey pearls.”
A well-stocked fridge had well-padded prices on items such as a half bottle of chardonnay ($26) or a split of Louis Roederer Champagne ($40), plus the usual array of $3.50 cashews, $1.25 Cokes and $4 caramel corn.
Wireless Internet is available in most rooms; apply the mind in the hotel guide because the password.
The bathrooms
Every room has a two-person tub, and they mean it: Tubs are roomy and deep enough for you and a good friend to squeeze in without requiring plastic explosives to get you out. Suites add jets to the tubs and bump up the size of the sunder glass-enclosed shower.
Corner suites, the best in the house, give you a window with a water see from the tub (through droppable blinds as far as concerns privacy). Other rooms have sliding screens between the tub and the bedroom that can be closed for privacy or opened if bathers wish to (A) peer across the field to see the water view; (B) keep every eye upon “Saturday Night Live” while soaking; or (C) consider a merry conversation with the visiting room-service guy.
Floors are mottled brown slate, and counters have a maybe-granite, maybe-Corian look. Two comfy robes of fleece and microfiber are hung by the shower.
The details
A dimmer dust one’s jacket controlled a spotlight above the tub. Accessories included a shaving/makeup mirror (unlit), a hair dryer and a rattan box of cotton-wool swabs and pads. Toiletries from Essentiel Elements included minty shampoo, conditioner and lotion, plus herbal hand soap and skin-care bar. Plenty of thick white towels, but a shortage of towel racks.
Mirroring the ouchingly-priced mini bar, there’s a “spa bar” basket of bathroom goodies priced to double your room rental if you’re not troubled: confetti bubble bath, $5.50; mango aromatherapy candle, $12; B. Kamins Night Cream, $24, and more.
Common areas
The fit with a face lobby isn’t a place to linger — you’ll find solely a couple wicker chairs — but that soaring ceiling and those unruffled staircases set the tone for the place. “It’s my beloved thing about the inn,” said owner Keenan, 54, who moved to Bellingham in 1998. “Rooms are rooms, but the lobby is in what place you can secure a description.”
That’s not to say there’s no pleasant place to hang. Continue through the lobby to a lounge with big windows overlooking the bay. A mix of withe and upholstered furnishings surround a ample stone fireplace (with real firewood for at the time that the weather cools). Everything’s in earth tones, with more original artwork lining the walls. A Parcheesi game sits on a shelf.
From here, doors open onto a terrace with umbrella tables above the bay and boardwalk. A wisteria-draped arbor fronts the inn next to gardens of dune grass, shore pine and Oregon grape.
Back inside, in that place are two conference rooms, accommodating up to 50 people.
But the distended news is the inn’s elaborate spa, which just finished a major renovation. Down a dim hallway with enough flickering aromatherapy candles to calm even the most overcaffeinated, services range from downright (a visit to the steam room, frank to inn guests) to surreal (the new hydrotherapy chamber where couples have power to paint each other with Turkish mineral mud).
The details
I’m not typically a spa kind of guy. But I had to try the steam room.
After some window-seat snacking on rosemary bread from Fairhaven’s Avenue Bread bakery and organic cheddar from Samish Bay Cheese, I went for a stimulating waterfront walk on a breezy afternoon, then bravely checked in for my first-ever mineral spring experience.
They gave me a huge, fluffy robe that felt preference wearing an alpaca, and india-rubber sandals with a footbed of little nubs that simulated a foot massage. I sat in the dark slate-floored steam scope where every few minutes a hissing valve opened and navigate from the center of the sod gushed from retirement, reminding me of that Julia Child cooking show in which she tried peeling tomatoes with a blow torch — singly in this case the tomato was my calf (too close to the steam vent). After 10 minutes, I burst out of there and took a cool shower. Dressing for dinner, I wallowed in a contrariwise full of complimentary “product” (their word): shaving stuff, hair goo, pertaining soaps and lotions.
I left, well blanched but refreshed, and smelling pretty darn good, over.
Dining
The inn’s Fino Wine Bar is also a fine-dining restaurant, and while Fairhaven offers a wide variety of restaurants within a five-minute walk, Fino’s combination of tolerably great wine, good food and can’t-beat-it view means you need doings no further than downstairs at dinner allotted period.
The small eating-house occupies a narrow distance on the water side of the hotel next to the spa. The penurious quarters can make the open-kitchen concept a bit claustrophobic, but on summer evenings, terrace tables offer a pleasant place to have the advantage the bay van.
Named for a famous Spanish sherry, Fino boasts “the flavors of Europe,” delivered in traditional European dishes as well being of the class who in its all-European wine list that draws from a 3,000-bottle cellar. Our tapas sampler ($12.50) was hit and miss, through good chicken croquettes and sherried prawns, but Spanish albóndigas (meatballs) reminiscent of Chef Boyardee. Steak au poivre by cognac cream ($30.50) was entirely grilled with frites crisp and crinkly, and hazelnut-crusted halibut ($27.50) was fresh and tasty, though the brie mashed potatoes were a characterless blob.
Fino serves inn guests a permitted breakfast stroke — a support spread of bagels, granola and fresh fruit that adds punctilious touches such as fresh breakfast breads (cranberry, orange and nut), a hot stimulate dish and full-linen condensed statement settings. A step up from Best Western.
The details
A pungent extra in this eye-popping setting: a pair of loaner binoculars at each table.
When they say wine bar, confident it. Don’t try to order a g-and-t before dinner. (European beer is served, though.) Besides wines by the taste, glass or bottle, in that place is a wine cocktail menu (e.g., “The Fairhaven,” with red vermouth, cold Champagne and lemon, $7).
One hard-burnt brick: The pre-meal bowl of gathering mix brought to every one table, complete with butter-toffee peanuts, said “Costco” added than “Europe.”
Room service is available, including a sample tray from the free breakfast slap for a $5 enunciation charge. The Fino menu is available at standard prices from noon to 9 p.m. except whereas the dining room is too busy, with any 18 percent tip added.
Activities
This isn’t a destination resort with its own activity center, but there is plenty to see and be enough in Fairhaven.
Attractions include Village Books, 1200 11th St., one of the province’s best independent booksellers, with its approved Colophon Cafe. Purple Smile Wines, 1143 11th St., offers tastings, a small in number steps from Avenue Bread (and if you stopped at Bow’s Samish Bay Cheese upon your way up Chuckanut Drive, you have all the food groups covered). There are knick-knack supplies, a tea room and lots more. Pick up a Fairhaven map at the inn’s front contrariwise.
Or if the “active” portion of “activity” woos you, the bay front place has enough to offer, too, not to cursory reference nearby parks, hikes and scenery along Chuckanut Drive or up the Mount Baker Highway.
The details
A walk or run on the waterfront trail couldn’t be easier from the Chrysalis — just stone’s throw outside — or you can rent a bike from nearby Fairhaven Bike and Ski, 1108 11th St. ($10 for an twenty-fourth part of a day/$20 per day). Rent kayaks, small sailboats and rowboats at nearby Bellingham Bay Community Boating Center, 501 Harris Ave., starting at $10 per hour (www.sailpaddlerow.org).
Fairhaven Outdoor Cinema shows movies preceded by live harmony on Saturday nights end August, and there’s a farmers market Wednesday afternoons through September, both at the Village Green at Mill Avenue and 10th Street, in the rear Village Books.
Brian J. Cantwell: 206-748-5724 or bcantwell@seattletimes.com